Worldwide Sneakerography: Nigeria
Just a quick shoutout to those who are sending me info about the sneaker scene in their countries…I got A LOT of positive feedback from our first three installments of Sneakerography Worldwide, so here we go with our third installment, brought to us by @sneakwithharleem in Nigeria
Some background on the column: A short while ago, I was looking around at sneaker social media and asked myself...'why does it all look the same?'
It's almost like a byproduct of living in America...the homogeny. You just kind of take advantage of the fact that we are so ignorant to believe that the American sneaker scene is omniscient. Like...our conversation revolves around us and what we're doing. And...I dunno...the fact that there are quite a few international collectors in my DMs tells me that this thing is so much bigger than us. So in the words of Michael Jordan: 'I took offense to that'.
I've had the opportunity to do a bit of traveling, and I'm constantly amazed at the regional differences that exist between sneakerheads. As a kid, I found it supremely frustrating that I had to ask my parents to drive a half hour or more for me to find a cool pair of shoes. As a kid, I found it frustrating that everything I saw in The Source and Slam Magazine was virtually inaccessible to me in the mountains of Northern California.
And now that the internet has made nearly everything available to everyone on the world...it made me think of the people in those places that choose to participate in sneaker culture, whether that be prefaced with 'American...' or not.
So I reached out to a bunch of people in international cities who volunteered...I wanted to hear about 'sneaker culture' in their world.
Let’s give it up for Haleem, the man behind @sneakwithharleem
Interview: Abdul-Haleem Olatinwo
Photographer: Francis Alagbe (Snkfafilms)
Introduction:
Can you tell me a bit about yourself and your involvement in the sneaker culture in Nigeria?
I am Abdul-Haleem, host of the Sneak with Harleem podcast and an avid sneaker lover. I enjoy conversations around sneakers, the culture of sneakers, and other affiliated subcultures. My fascination with sneakers and their relevance to my Nigerian heritage inspired me to research, document, and share my findings through the Sneak with Harleem podcast and blog posts. To date, I've contributed over 30 episodes and 4 blog posts, with a focus on showcasing the vibrant sneaker scene in Nigeria/Africa. I aim to continue contributing to the global recognition of the Nigerian sneaker culture.
Local Influence:
How would you describe the overall sneaker culture in Nigeria? Are there specific local influences that stand out?
The Nigerian sneaker culture has experienced remarkable growth! From the beginning to the end of 2023, we've witnessed significant strides in awareness, individual participation, events, and content creation. A lot of crucial activities happened during that time frame that gave the sneaker culture in Nigeria the foundation it needed to thrive. Key figures like @HorlarofLagos took 2023 to create not just local awareness about the culture of sneakers through his effortless swags, and a showcase of sneakers and the sneaker culture across his social media platforms but also internationally through many recognitions by global sneaker-related enterprises like BAL, Jordan, and collaboration with Nike Nigeria on the “From Jumps to Kicks” collaboration.
Nike Blazer “From Jumps to Kicks”- Image via @HorlarofLagos
Also, the Sneakerfest23 event was a tool of influence for the culture in 2023. It brought together sneakerheads, sportsmen and women, skateboarders, rappers, and different people across the many subcultures affiliated with the sneakers culture to celebrate, empower, and create an awareness of the culture in Nigeria. Sportwear brands like Nike and Adidas launched flagship stores in the country, and this has also been very helpful in the Nigerian sneaker space, providing sneakerheads an avenue to interact with sneakers firsthand and cop sneakers at retail, which hasn’t been as easy for sneakerheads in the country.
Sneakerheads at the SneakerFest23 Event - Image via @Climaxeffects
Favorite Brands:
What are the most popular or preferred sneaker brands in Nigeria? Are there any local brands that have a significant presence?
Nikes, Adidas, and Converse are the dominant sneaker brands in Nigeria. Their sneakers are the most popular amongst many other brands. The Nigerian sneakers market is vast, with varieties of sneakers from many brands. Although, not dead stock pairs due to the dominant thrift sneakers (popularly known as BK, first grade, or bend down select) being welcomed to the country from around the world. This has given Nigerians an avenue to pick up sneakers from different brands besides the popular brands. Replica sneakers (Fufu or Fugazi) also contribute to the popularity of the three listed sneaker brands in Nigeria through the constant flooding of the Nigerian sneaker market with a look-alike of popular sneakers from these brands. In Nigeria, you will find people rocking sneakers like the Nike Air Force 1s, Nike Dunks/ SB Dunks, Adidas Yeezy 350s, Adidas Stans Smith, and Converse Chuck Taylors a lot amongst many others.
Also, Nigerian/African sneaker brands are gradually building their brand engagements with sneakerheads and general sneakers lovers in the country, but there's still room for growth. Nigerian brands like Keexs, NBDA, and 8stepps are gaining traction among sneaker enthusiasts.
KEEXS “Love Note Kiet” Sneakers
8stepps Low Top Sneakers
Buying Habits:
How do sneakerheads in Nigeria typically acquire their sneakers? Are there preferred retail channels or marketplaces?
The accessibility of original sneakers in Nigeria has improved alongside the growing awareness of sneaker culture. Previously, there were only a few sneaker stores available for sneakerheads in Nigeria to cop sneakers from, and another option was reaching out to family and friends overseas to cop these sneakers and ship them to Nigeria. So, people who wanted to get authentic sneakers had to explore these options, and it wasn’t an easy hurdle to get by because of the shipping cost from overseas. It made buying sneakers very tasking.
HFSKICKS Sneaker Store Lagos, Nigeria – Image via HFSKICKS
REUPLANE Sneaker Store Lagos, Nigeria – Image via REUPLANE
With markets in Lagos and Abba swimming in pools of replicas or fakes of these sneakers, most people see them as an alternative to getting something quick and easy instead of waiting forever to cop a pair of sneakers. The awareness around sneakers, the culture, and the industry has grown so well since then, and this has positively affected the availability of original sneakers and made purchasing sneakers easy. However, many sneakerheads still buy sneakers from many sneaker stores widely available online and physically in the country. This is because that’s where you can cop grails and newly released pairs. Brands like Nike, Adidas, Crocs, and Sketchers have launched stores in the country to cater to the needs of the promising Nigerian sneaker market, but there is more to look forward to. Currently, sneaker fanatics in Nigeria look forward to a narrow range of options to cop sneakers from. These include sneaker stores like REUPLANE, HSF KICKS, TDC, etc., and brands’ flagship stores.
Replica Sneakers at a Store in Ogbomoso, Nigeria – Images via @snkfafilms
Trends and Styles:
Are there specific sneaker styles or trends that are particularly popular in Nigeria? How do these differ from global trends?
Music and fashion play an integral part in the trends of sneakers and how people around here style their shoes. Many young Nigerians look up to musical artists as inspirations for trends and style. At least, it was like that growing up. Now, the popularity of African fashion brands has added a layer of uniqueness to the styles and trends of sneakers in Nigeria, as it could go from an artiste rocking verities of sporting sneakers to models of clothing brands rocking luxury sneakers on the runway that catches the eyes of people and puts them on what is considered trending and stylish. Lagos is a place to experience what trends and styles of sneakers in Nigeria feel like because it’s inhabited by people from almost every part of the country. This explains the vast difference in the preference of people as they rock sneakers ranging from the regular trainers of brands like Jordan, Nike, Adidas, Converse, Puma, Vans, and so on, to luxury sneakers brands like Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Rick Owen, Naked Wolf, etc. and even regular slides and clogs. People mostly prefer to wear what compliments their outfits and keeps them vibrant as much. Compared to some other places around the world where people are kept in a chokehold by a brand or two, Nigerians love to explore and see it all, so with the continuous awareness of the sneakers culture and what it entails, sneakerheads try as much as possible to tap into the different brands to find with soothes their wants. Hence, the style and trends could range from vintage collections to recent heats or retros.
Community and Events:
How do sneaker enthusiasts in Nigeria connect with each other? Are there community events, meet-ups, or online forums that are widely used?
The Nigerian sneaker community is thriving. Driven by continuous networking and engagement among enthusiasts, it’s always an exciting experience to meet someone new who shares the same interest as you and the eagerness to experience that has been the prime mover for people in the Nigeria sneakers space to connect. This outreach has spanned across Nigeria, as Nigerians in diasporas also connect with those at home to share their thoughts and mostly build the Nigerian sneaker community. There are a couple of online forums that have immensely contributed to the community and togetherness of the sneaker culture in Nigeria, and I am most familiar with two forums. The first is the sneaker community created by HorlarofLagos on X (formerly Twitter) and the NEWBOX sneaker forum on WhatsApp created by TopboyTitan where information, ideas, and content about sneakers are being shared. The SneakerFest event is a yearly sneaker experience aimed at promoting the sneaker culture in Nigeria. Engineered by Ikemesit Nkereuwem-Tim and his team, the event has viciously seen to promoting the sneaker culture and other related subcultures. The most recent event happened in December 2023, and it welcomed people contributing to the culture in every area. It was a grand event that showed the presence of the sneaker culture in Nigeria.
Bikers at the Sneakerfest23 Event
Nike Own the Floor Dance Contest
Collecting Habits:
Do sneakerheads in Nigeria have unique collecting habits or preferences? For example, do they focus on certain collaborations, limited editions, or vintage sneakers?
Nigerian sneaker collections might appear different at times and the same at others. As previously stated, sneakerheads get a lot of influence from fashion and music while choosing the kind of shoes to collect. Because of Travis Scott's charisma and influence of trap music, sneakerheads in Nigeria, for instance, have a lot of Travis Scott Collaboration sneakers in their collections. Additionally, the fact that many of his sneaker collaborations are highly anticipated contributes to the likelihood that you will find them in most collections. Yet, sneakerheads have different collecting habits. Low-top shoes are a must-have for some collectors, influencing their purchase of Jordan 1 low, Nike SBs, and other low-top sneakers. Sports like basketball, skateboarding, and BMX biking add dimension to many sneakerheads' collections as they seek footwear that meets their sporting needs while also looking trendy. A large percentage of sneakerheads in Nigeria are gradually becoming acquainted with the culture and the various types of sneakers available, so the depth in terms of limited editions, samples, and vintage sneakers may not be extensive. However, many people are working hard to learn about and get to know these sneakers. I recently shared a photo on my Instagram story featuring the Sean Wotherspoon X Adidas Gazelle, and a guy I met in the sneaker world messaged me with pictures of the pair he just got. It was remarkable and intriguing that he got such a rare pair of sneakers, and it demonstrates the lengths individuals go to get these sneakers.
BadBlood28 and Ladipoe (Afrobeat Superstar) at Sneakerfest23
Cultural Influences:
How does the overall culture and lifestyle of Nigeria influence the sneaker choices and preferences of enthusiasts?
For a country like Nigeria, where the cultures are dynamic because it encompasses over 250 ethnic groups. Fashion and style are some of the common grounds amongst these ethnic groups, and this has been transferred to how present-day sneakerheads collect and purchase sneakers. Nigerians are good with bargaining and ensuring that they get the best purchase out of a pair of sneakers, and with the present economic status of the country, sneakerheads are forced to look out for the best pairs that suit their budget. This has contributed to why some Nigerians prefer to go for reps or fakes as compared to the original pair because of how relatively cheaper they are. However, with the continuous awareness being created, people are gradually getting familiarized with other options they could explore that would cost the same as a replica pair of sneakers of another brand’s Model. Naturally, Nigerians like slip-on, flip-flop, and open-toe footwear, which dates to ancient times when rubber and tires were used to produce flip-flops and slippers. This is one of the reasons why many Nigerians have been drawn toward clogs and anti-sneakers, such as those by Crocs. Literally every youth in Nigeria wears clog or mule-shaped footwear, which can be linked to the footwear's comfort and ease of slipping on. The Salehe Bembury Crocs are among the most popular here, but most are reproductions and fakes. I have seen some sneakerheads rock the originals, and with Crocs stores in the country, I suppose people are constantly discovering clogs that meet their budgets.
Enioluwa’s Crocs Collection – Image via @enioluwaofficial
Collaborations with Local Artists:
Are there collaborations between sneaker brands and local artists or designers that are notable in Nigeria?
Sneaker collaborations here in Nigeria haven’t been all that, even though I feel we have the tools required to provide creatives that could contribute to collaborations with brands to create exciting products. Artists are the most likely to get collaborations with such, and a few have been able to explore such opportunities. For example, Davido is one of the most decorated Nigeria Musical Artists, currently signed with Puma. However, there hasn’t been anything substantial on collaborations on sneakers. Nigerians in the Diaspora have had some great opportunities for sneaker collaborations, such as Skepta and Clint. Most of these collaborations were dropped overseas, limiting access for Nigerians. Nike, Jordan, Nocta, and other brands have released some Nigeria-inspired sneakers. For reference, the Air Jordan 1 "Vibration of Naija" and the Hot Step Air Terra "Distant Regards" are two of the most current of these sneakers. Although, they were not sold in Nigeria, and everyone I know who has a pair bought it overseas or had it sent to them. HorlarofLagos had an in-house collaboration with Nike and Layerx in 2023, which featured a collaboration on the Nike Airforce 1 and Nike Blazer. The partnership was titled "From Jumps to Kicks," and it was intended to portray the tale of the creative lifestyle photographer, from his early days of taking busses (Danfo-Lagos Yellow Bus) without sneakers to eventually getting one after a legitimate hustle in Lagos, Nigeria. The sneakers were released in Nigeria and made available at the Nike store for consumers to connect with in person. I consider this the first sneaker collaboration aimed at Nigerians and the Nigerian sneaker culture. Rema is one of the most promising Afrobeat artists in the world, and he recently announced a collaboration with Jordan Brand. I'm excited to see where the partnership goes because he's young. He has a promising career, and his cultural heritage might serve as a tremendous source of inspiration for future collaborations and projects.
Nike Air Force 1 “From Jumps to Kicks”- Image via @Climaxeffects
Sneakerhead Language:
Are there specific terms or slang used by sneaker enthusiasts in Nigeria? How does the language of sneaker culture differ locally?
Nigerian sneakerhead terminology and terminologies are like those used elsewhere, with the United Kingdom having had a significant influence. Sneakerheads in Nigeria utilize words like Cop, Kicks, flip, Bred, and so on to communicate with other sneakerheads. However, some other words have been developed and adapted from local languages to describe their thoughts and emotions. These words include Isu/Fufu, which denotes fake or fugazi. Additionally, a variety of social media sounds have been created to encourage sneakerheads to flaunt their sneakers. All these modes of communication have contributed to improved interactions among Nigerian sneakerheads.
A Fufu/Fugazi KD Sneaker
Challenges and Hurdles:
What challenges or obstacles do sneakerheads in Nigeria face, whether related to availability, pricing, or other factors?
The Nigerian sneaker community has faced obstacles, and individuals have encountered one or two roadblocks. Some of these obstacles are gradually being addressed as additional parties enter the community to explore how they may solve those issues. Nigerians who participate in the sneaker culture frequently confront challenges of availability, cost, and authentication. Purchasing a sneaker in Nigeria might be a daunting task, especially when it is a newly released sneaker. This is because most resale stores that sell legitimate shoes get them on the secondary market or, in certain circumstances, directly from the brand's website. Therefore, the lack of a direct collaboration between companies and these outlets limits the recency of the types of sneakers available. So, for example, if a pair of sneakers is introduced today, it may take some time before they are available in sneaker stores across the country, affecting the number of pairs available to consumers. The existence of some flagship stores in the country has helped to solve the issue of accessibility in some locations, and there is still work to be done in terms of partnerships with local businesses around the country to make these products more available. Sneakers can be tasking to obtain due to a lack of diversity because most stores sell hyped and popular pairs. This has automatically shifted the authentic footwear market to a secondary market pricing rather than retail because of how much these shoes sell for on the secondary market, as well as factors such as foreign exchange rates and import duties, which are constantly rising and directly affecting the price of sneakers. As a result, a sneaker introduced for retail for $115 could be sold for $290 to $590 due to the elements that influence how these sneakers are priced. Authentication is another challenge sneakerheads encounter daily, as counterfeits and reproductions dominate the Nigerian sneaker market. So, sneakerheads rely on their knowledge and verification methods to ensure that the shoes they buy are legitimate. This also explains why certain stores are the most reliable for purchasing authentic sneakers. However, these stores do not provide authentication services, and I believe it would be a terrific addition because there are no such services in the country now. Most people use the Check-Check App for sneaker authentication, and it appears to be the most legitimate method of validating the authenticity of any pair of sneakers.
Innovation and Technology:
How do sneaker technologies and innovations impact the choices of sneaker enthusiasts in Nigeria?
Innovation and technology in sneakers is a niche of preference since the people who are most worried about such trends are those who work in sports or other fields where these technologies or innovations have a direct impact on their operations. For example, many basketball players and fans here are particularly thrilled about the latest technological advancements in hoop footwear from brands such as Nike, Adidas, and New Balance. Compared to the instant craze that many individuals experience with Jordan retros. Furthermore, the Adidas boost technology was an innovation that struck people and broke away from the niche preference, with everyone wanting to buy a pair of Adidas shoes with the boost technology because of how comfortable they appeared and their overall performance. A similar trend can be observed with Nike VaporMax technology; many people liked it, which is why it became popular. The influence of technology and innovation is limited in the Nigerian sneaker market since only persons with specific technological preferences choose footwear that meets those criteria.
Social Media Presence:
How influential is social media in shaping and showcasing the sneaker culture in Nigeria? Are there specific platforms that dominate?
Social media has been a fantastic resource for connecting, learning, and discovering. In Nigeria's sneaker community, social media platforms such as Instagram and X (previously Twitter) have been great in connecting sneakerheads around the country to share ideas and opinions regarding sneakers. It has also played an important role in assisting ordinary sneaker consumers in discovering the various types of sneakers that exist, as well as people's perspectives on them and everything else that adds to the culture, thanks to the rise of many people on social media posting content about sneakers. It has also been an excellent tool for information and communication since many people now have firsthand knowledge of sneakers, release dates, and reviews, which can help them make the appropriate judgments before purchasing a pair of sneakers. Also, on social media sites such as Snapchat and TikTok, sneakerheads in Nigeria use the custom sound "Is my sneakers fake?" by HorlarofLagos to display their sneakers, which is currently one of the most popular trends in the Nigerian sneaker scene. These, among others, are the influences social media has on the culture of sneakers in Nigeria, which constantly helps the culture create essential awareness.
A Placard of a popular slang.
Cultural Traditions:
Are there any cultural traditions or rituals related to sneaker culture in Nigeria that might be unique or interesting?
There are no cultural traditions peculiar to the sneaker culture. Nigeria's sneaker culture is still developing, therefore perhaps as it does, various features that describe the culture will emerge. I'm not sure where the popular sneaker ritual emerged, but it's been around since I've known sneakers. It is a procedure that people use to authenticate a pair of sneakers. The notion is that if a pair of sneakers is tossed up and lands on its sole, it's legitimate, and if it lands on its side or any other part, it's fake. The legitimacy of this procedure is not established, but it's something that people around here used to do before other ways of validation were discovered.
Future Trends:
Where do you see the future of the sneaker culture in Nigeria heading? Are there emerging trends or shifts in preferences?
Nigeria's sneaker culture is on track to become world-renowned. More individuals are becoming interested in the culture, which is fantastic for the culture. Given the constraints and obstacles I mentioned before, with more people and sneakerheads involved, the culture will benefit from the various perspectives in which people desire to bring value. The Nigerian sneaker community is a giant family that connects sneakerheads in Nigeria and the diaspora, forming a community that ensures to empower, relate, and express our tales through a mutual link "Sneakers". Sneaker trends will continue to alter because of the dynamic nature of man, Nigerian culture, and people influencing sneaker culture through various means. Furthermore, with the country's world-class skills in sports, music, entrepreneurship, and other fields, there is a strong belief that partnerships can arise from these sectors to improve Nigeria's sneaker culture. The Nigerian sneaker community is thriving and the only way to go is up!
Once again, I’d like to thank @sneakwithharleem (give that man a follow!) as I know he put a lot of time and effort into this. I find it fascinating to think of a place like Nigeria (with a population of 230m people!!!) and sneakers and am happy that Instagram has provided a way for me to connect with someone on the ground out there…Anyway, I hope you enjoyed this as much as I did. If you know anyone else that wants to be featured have them reach out!!!